The Wyoming Star

Design by Jim Perkins, 2003

Pre-Master stone for 2005 USFG competition

After you finish this stone, if you cut it well, you will be ready for the masters.

I spent a lot of time on PF-1 & PF-2 and the girdle. I first cut PF-1 & PF-2 to a center point. Then cut my girdle in. I went back and followed a girdle line with my 1200 and cut the sequence 96-08-16-24 ect. by changing elevation in between. I checked the culet after completing the line and had to bring some facets up to the culet and re-cut the girdle. You should do this over and over again. Even though it is tedious it will make the stone work so much easier for you later. After the four PF's , I continued on with P-5 & P-6--very light hand here as it is easy to over cut. I polished my girdle first as you do not want to come back to it. Then I followed the order as per diagram. It is difficult to make culet & girdle meet point, but with a little practice not too bad.

After transfer, here is a tip: set your pro-tractor to C-1-44.8 and cut all your break facets at this height, that is C-1 & C-2. Leave a strong ¼", I used a 360, follow your girdle line around and make the adjustment if needed. Mine was off .25. Then put a 600 on and now make your height changes every other one 44.8 & 41.76, when you come all the way around, if needed, make another slight correction and cut all but the table. Now put a 1200 on and repeat the crown. Very light hand required. This is one of the few times I cut and polish the table last, because you can only cut and polish it in once to get an even line around.

This stone requires a lot of patience, because of the elevation changes every other one on both pavilion and crown breaks. You can do a credible job with depth of cut but not for competition. You must follow a line (girdle line) on both pavilion and crown.

Art Kavan